Log in Register. Search only containers. Search titles only. Search Advanced search…. Members Current visitors. Interface Language. Log in. Install the app. Forums English Only English Only. JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. Have aquarium water tested for ammonia and nitrite as soon as the water begins to get cloudy.
In most situations the levels will be zero, meaning there is no cause for concern. We understand that seeing cloudy water in a new aquarium, can be alarming. But the best advice is to be patient and wait it out.
Don't add any more fish, feed sparingly once every other day, have your water tested and just leave the filter alone for the time being. Cloudy water in an established aquarium is another issue. Please contact us for assistance! Video: 3 Tips to Succeed with Fish Care. Read More. Should I do nothing and let nature take its course? Without question, doing nothing is the best approach for a new fish tank, as long as ammonia and nitrite levels are not on the rise.
Cleaning the filter does nothing except disrupt the few beneficial bacteria that have had a chance to get established. These "good guys" will eventually outcompete the cloudy water bacteria for food, starving them out and breaking down their carcasses.
Water changes clear the water temporarily, but in a day or two the cloudiness reappears, often even worse than before. That's because new water provides a fresh supply of nutrients, causing the cloudy water bacteria to populate even more. Left alone, the cloudy water bacteria will eventually consume all the nutrients in the water and die out. This is part of the cycling process! Should I add live plants or other beneficial bacteria?
Live plants have "good" bacteria and other microbes on them, which help establish the biological balance in the aquarium. Live plants compete for nutrients and help starve out microbes that cause cloudy water. In addition, they produce oxygen during the day, which aids in the breakdown of fish waste, uneaten food, and the cloudy water bacteria as they begin to die off.
This third benefit helps clear the water. Keeping the aquarium very clean by removing debris such as decaying plants and uneaten food, vacuuming the gravel regularly, and performing partial water changes will quickly resolve most cases of bacterial bloom.
Cut back feeding to every second or third day, which will reduce excess food decay. If there are particles of debris in the water that you are unable to remove via water changes and vacuuming, a flocculant may be used to clear them away.
Flocculates cause particles of debris to clump together so they can easily be removed by the filter be sure to clean your filter so it's working at peak efficiency. Flocculates are generally marketed as water clarifiers and may be found at your fish shop. Green water is a no-brainer. It's due to algae growth. Getting rid of it is the hard part, but if you know the cause, it's easier to cure. Here are the primary causes of green water:.
The most obvious cause and the easiest one to cure is too much light. Placing the aquarium in direct sunlight or leaving the lights on too long will result in algae growth.
Reduce the amount of time the lights are on, and move the aquarium to a location out of direct sunlight. Nutrients such as phosphates and nitrates also support the algae growth and must also be reduced to successfully battle algae. A water change will give some immediate relief but probably won't resolve the problem completely. It's important to deal with phosphates and nitrates at their source to rid yourself of them. Phosphates come from two sources—decaying matter such as fish food, and from the water source itself.
Testing your tap water for phosphates will let you know if you have a problem with your water source. If your water naturally has a high level of phosphate, you will need to use RO water or a phosphate remover to treat the water. Reducing the amount of food you give your fish, and changing to a brand that is lower in. Nitrates naturally rise in the aquarium over time as a byproduct of fish wastes.
The only way to remove them is to perform a water change.
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